News from the road

March found us settling into the quiet rhythms of Lake Ohrid. After the shock of first arrival, the place slowly reveals itself — an ancient lake, Orthodox churches on almost every hillside, and a promenade where daily life unfolds with gentle repetition.

This issue explores what happens when travellers stop moving long enough to notice. From the subtle sociology of campsite life to the systems that quietly keep a travelling household functioning, we look at the practical realities beneath the romance of the road. Pip’s role as our quartermaster reminds us that adventure often begins with something as simple as finding the next loaf of bread.

Alongside these everyday mechanics sits a deeper story. Ohrid is steeped in Byzantine history and Orthodox tradition, shaping language, architecture, and the cultural identity of the region. Living here for a while rather than passing through invites a different kind of understanding — one built from observation, routine, and time.

And, as always, Scylla reminds us what it means to experience the world directly: lake water as a drinking bowl, sticks as the centre of existence, and the present moment as the only one that really matters.

March, it turns out, wasn’t about going somewhere new. It was about learning how to be somewhere.

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In this issue

Feature
Lake Ohrid — The immortal lake: Is Europe’s oldest beauty at breaking point?
An exploration of one of Europe’s oldest lakes and the threat of the modern world.

History & culture
Ohrid: A city built on layers Part one of two
Spend a little time in Ohrid and you notice the many layers of history. This part looks at the geographical and political developments in the region.

Nomad life
Temporary neighbours: The Sociology of Campsites
A quiet study of the unspoken rules, rituals, and behaviours that shape life among travelling motorhomes.

Scylla’s view
Learning to read the dog
What a lakeside world looks like when it is experienced through scent, sensation, and sticks.

Food & drink
Introducing: The Quartermaster
Why every expedition — even a small travelling household — depends on someone quietly managing the supply chain.

Systems & technology
When a system fails – when our auxiliary power system failed, it highlighted how distance can amplify problems.

Living in the van
A house that moves– What it’s like living permanently in a 7.4 metre motorhome.

Lessons learned
Ohrid edition -Drawing together the month’s reflections: what staying still for a while can teach you about travel, place, and attention.