Travelling, learning, living fully.
After seven months of nomadic living, we are beginning to understand that travelling through seasons is not simply about moving location. The seasons slowly begin changing how you live inside the vehicle. Winter in France and Italy demanded one set…
We chose this life. Scylla didn’t. That means her experience of it matters at least as much as ours. Not as sentimentality. Not as a slogan. Simply because of asking another species to live inside a world largely shaped by…
Ohrid settled into my body slowly. Cold lake water. Wet ground before sunrise. Reed beds moving in the dark before light fully reached them. Old bread and food remnants near the promenade. Cats under parked cars. Street dogs were everywhere,…
Long-term travel changes you in ways that are difficult to spot while you are still inside it. At first, most journeys begin with practical questions. Routes. Borders. Fuel. Water. Campsites. Weather windows. Which roads look worth driving and which towns…
After ten weeks, we finally left Ohrid. Long enough for routines to become normal and familiar faces to become part of daily life. We could easily have stayed longer had it not been for the bureaucratic pressure of still being…
At first glance this is simply a mountain photograph. Snow on top. Green below. Slightly dramatic sky. Pleasant enough. Scroll on. That is usually where most of us stop looking. This photograph was taken at 0700 on 21 April during…
Temporary villages form in curious ways. Nobody plans them. No one appoints a mayor or draws a street map. Yet give people a place to stop for long enough and patterns appear that look remarkably like a settlement. Our time…
Last month we explored the geological story of Lake Ohrid — a landscape shaped over more than a million years. This month the lens shifts from geology to people. In comparison with the age of the lake, the human story…
The smallest room in our motorhome is a cupboard. Open the door and you’ll find a Wi-Fi router, a cluster of chargers and a handful of devices stacked neatly on a shelf — tablets, phones, a laptop, a Kindle, and…
Morning begins with the door opening. Air moves differently outside the van. Cooler. Wet with the smell of the lake. The first walk of the day goes one of two ways. Sometimes toward the lake shore. Sometimes toward the open…